Petri dish art is a fascinating type of liquid art made by dripping alcohol ink into epoxy resin. The end result looks like a magnificent science experiment, with colorful tendrils, blobs and crumbs magically suspended in the hardened resin.

If you've ever tried making petri dish art, you know it can be a little unpredictable, so we're sharing some techniques to help you get more specific results.

If you've ever thought that achieving those beautiful petri dish effects was just down to random luck, this blog is for you!

Lilian makes 4 different samples, varies the number of layers and the timing of the ink, and compares the results:

Sample A: Casting a layer - adds ink instantly
Sample B: Pour in double layers - adds ink immediately
Sample C: Pour in one layer - wait 25 minutes before refilling the ink
Sample D: Pour in double layers - wait 25 minutes before refilling the ink

💡 See if you can guess which method is Lillian's favorite.

Are you ready to create your own magical petri dish art?
Let's do this!

You need:

• Resin epoxy resin
• Alcohol ink in a few colors that blend nicely together (Lillian used teal and blue)
• Ink sink
• A mixing cup
• A silicone mold with a shiny interior
• Wooden spatulas and nitrile gloves
• A dust cover to protect your pieces while they cure

Prepare the resin

Wear gloves and prepare your resin by measuring equal volumes of resin and hardener into a mixing cup. Stir well for 3 minutes, scraping the sides and bottom of the mixing container to ensure each part is thoroughly mixed.

Let the resin sit for a few minutes to allow the bubbles to rise to the surface.

Use a heat gun (not a gas burner) to get rid of air bubbles.

Example A: Casting in one layer - no waiting time

In this sample, Lillian fills the silicone mold and adds the alcohol ink drops immediately, while the resin is at its most runny.


First fill the mold with resin, making sure to leave some space for the ink. Then drop in the blue-green alcohol ink and let them spread.

Then add the blue ink drops and let them spread.

Touch up any areas that need it with more teal or blue ink.

Then apply a layer of white ink sink and let it sink.

Repeat these steps adding more teal and blue ink and another layer of white.





Touch up areas that may need it with more teal and blue drops, followed by white.
Let the ink drip, then cover and let cure.






RESULTS:
This method results in a stringy pattern with a noticeable amount of white dots. Since the resin is at its thinnest consistency immediately after pouring, the white ink easily pushes through the blue and teal and hits the bottom of the mold with very little resistance.

Example B: Double layer hob - no waiting time

In this sample, Lillian pours the resin in two separate layers, adding alcohol ink immediately after each pour.

First fill the mold halfway with resin.

Then add the teal and blue drops, spreading after each addition.

Then add a layer of white and let it sink

Then fill the rest of the mold with clear resin, leaving some space for the ink.





Follow up with teal and blue drops, letting them spread, before adding another layer of white. Cover and let harden.






RESULTS:
This method creates a jellyfish-like pattern. The second resin pour interrupts the ink as it sinks to the bottom of the mold, giving the strings more of a wave effect, with less white dots.

Example C: Pour in a layer - 25 minute waiting time

For the third test, Lillian filled the mold with resin, but waited 25 minutes before dipping alcohol ink.


First fill the mold with resin, making sure to leave some space for the ink. Then drop in the teal and blue alcohol ink and let them spread.

Then add a layer of white and let it sink.





Follow up with another layer of teal and blue, followed by white

Touch up around the edges as needed with teal and blue, followed by the white and let the ink sink. Cover and let harden.

Cover and let harden.





RESULTS:
This method creates a coral-like pattern, with defined branches rather than a strand or jellyfish effect. Since the resin had 25 minutes to thicken, it is much harder for the ink to hit the bottom, resulting in a clearer appearance and fewer white spots than the previous two methods.






If you add enough white ink sink to method C, it will create these cute mushroom heads!

Sample D: Double layer slab - 25 minute waiting time

For this test, Lillian fills the mold halfway and waits 25 minutes before adding her ink. Then she refills the rest and refills with more ink.

 

First, fill the mold halfway with resin and wait 25 minutes. Then add a layer of teal and blue ink and let it spread.

Then add a layer of white ink sink and let the ink fall.

Fill the mold with clear resin and let the ink set.





Add a second layer of teal and blue ink and let it spread. Follow up with a layer of white ink sink and let the ink sink.

If the mold is not completely full, you can add a little more resin, followed by an ink touch-up.

Swirl the resin with a plastic stirring stick. Because the resin has thickened, the ink won't spread as far, so swirling encourages some movement. Cover and let harden.

RESULTS:
The jellyfish pattern in this method is very clear, with a thick wave effect from the second resin pour. Because the resin had sat and thickened, the ink encountered more resistance as it traveled through the resin. This gave them a chance to blend into each other so there is much less white ink on the bottom of the mold.

There you have it! 4 different looks for resin and alcohol ink petri art.

What is Lillian's favorite petri dish method?

If you guessed "B", you're right! Depending on what the project needs, B is Lillian's usual method.

What is your favorite?