Epoxy resin troubleshooting
As fun and gratifying as using resin is, it can also be frustrating if you run into problems and don't know how to solve them. Here we discuss how to avoid and fix the five most common problems people encounter when working with epoxy resin.
If you're looking for general tips and tutorials, check out our YouTube videos. If you have specific questions, search our FAQ... there's a really good chance the answers you're looking for will be there!
The 5 most common problems with epoxy resin
1. Uncured, tacky resin
This problem usually occurs in small patches, but it can also happen on the entire project. It is caused by the resin and hardener not catalyzing properly, meaning the two parts were either not mixed thoroughly enough or their mixing ratio was off.
To avoid curing problems:
- Use fresh resin and hardener. When you buy ArtResin online, we guarantee that it is fresh. In fact, you can find the ArtResin manufacturing date on the label making it easy to track how fresh it is! It has a shelf life of approx. 1 year unopened, or 6 months opened.
- Measure exactly equal amounts of the resin and hardener (ArtResin is a 1:1 ratio).
- Mix the resin and hardener thoroughly, scraping the sides and bottom of the container as you go. Stir for about 3 minutes. You may not scrape every single drop of resin into the container, then the last part that is left may get the wrong mixture.
To fix hardening problems:
- Scrape off any sticky material as best you can and discard.
- If you get a deep divot or crater, patch some new carefully mixed resin right into that spot.
- Then lightly sand the entire piece (including the hardened patch, if you needed to patch) and pour a second coat of resin on top. The grinding gives a tooth to the first layer so that the second layer adheres properly. It will look like a mess until you pour on the second layer, and then it will look great! Of course, you need to wait until the first layer and patch is 100% cured before adding more resin on top.
2. Resin bubbles
This is an unavoidable problem that can be easily solved. Bubbles in resin occur as a result of the mixing.
To minimize resin bubbles:
- Use fresh resin and hardener.
- Be sure to use a quality resin product that contains a bubble release agent, such as ArtResin. A bubble release agent allows for easy degassing so you don't have to work as hard to get the bubbles to pop. You should be able to see the bubbles disappear just by gently blowing on them.
- Pour resin over non-porous substrates to avoid entrapped air being released into the resin. If you have resin on porous surfaces such as wood or paper, it is a good idea to seal first.
- Blowing on bubbles will make them pop, but this method is not realistic if you are coating a large piece. In this case, use a gas burner. Applying heat by quickly running them over the surface of the resin will effectively free the resin from bubbles. I have found a small gas burner, so called brulée burner that is effective on most projects I do - it is easy to hold and maneuver, not cumbersome and does a really good job of taking care of every last bubble. For larger projects, I cannot do without a gas burner!
3. Defects on the surface
This problem can be caused by everything floating/falling into your resin as it cures, resulting in imperfections in the surface. If you experience flaws that look more like dome-shaped bumps in the resin, skip down to #4.
To avoid defects:
- Work with resin in a well-ventilated, designated size where your project can be undisturbed while curing.
- Cover your work with half a cardboard box or build a tent if your piece is very large. Prepare whatever you plan to cover ahead of time so you can simply grab it and use it as soon as you're done.
Here's how to fix deficiencies:
- Lightly sand the entire piece and pour a second layer of resin on top. The sanding gives some teeth on the first layer so that the second layer adheres properly. It will look like a mess until you pour the second layer, and then it will look great! Of course you have to wait until the first layer is 100% cured before adding more resin on top.
4. Uneven or poorly spreading resin
ArtResin is naturally self-leveling, so this problem occurs when your work is uneven or you haven't used enough resin.
To avoid defects:
Take the time to level your piece figure before filling in resin. Level from left to right and top to bottom. Use small pieces of paper to smooth that side to ensure evenness.
- Always mix a little more than you think you need to avoid running out. It's easy to find extra stuff to fill if you have some left over, but not easy to mix up more if you need to considering the curing times will be different.
- Always apply a generous amount of resin to the entire surface of your project. Again, it's easier to get it right the first time than to have to troubleshoot a piece that needs fixing.
Here's how to fix deficiencies:
- Lightly sand the entire piece and pour a second layer of resin on top. The sanding gives some teeth on the first layer so that the second layer adheres properly. It will look like a mess until you pour the second layer, and then it will look great! Of course you have to wait until the first layer is 100% cured before adding more resin on top.
5. Yellowed resin
This problem has been greatly mitigated with our new ArtResin formula, which contains a UV stabilizer and Hindered Amine Light Stabilizer (HALS) for exceptional yellowing protection. These additives protect against yellowing caused by UV light exposure (some epoxies are prone to) on a chemical level. It is still not recommended for outdoor use, as UV light creates undesirable conditions for resin. new ArtResin formula has UV stabilizer
To avoid yellowing problems:
- Use a quality resin product that contains both a UV and more importantly a HALS stabilizer, such as ArtResin.
- Keep your pieces away from UV light.
Hope this helps!!
Remember, as with most things in life, it takes practice and experience to get it right. Experiment, play, learn and enjoy the process!